What is pointing?
Pointing refers to the process of filling and finishing the mortar joints in brickwork as it is being built. When a bricklayer lays bricks, they leave a small amount of mortar joint exposed on the face of the wall. Pointing is the act of finishing that joint to the correct profile — flush, bucket-handle, weathered or recessed.
Pointing is done on new brickwork. It is part of the initial construction process, not a repair.
What is repointing?
Repointing is a repair process. It involves removing deteriorated, crumbling or missing mortar from the joints of an existing wall — usually to a depth of at least 15–20mm — and replacing it with fresh mortar. This restores the weather seal, prevents water ingress, and extends the life of the brickwork.
Repointing is done on existing brickwork where the original mortar has weathered, softened, or fallen away.
Why does mortar deteriorate?
Mortar is softer than brick by design. It is sacrificial — it weathers and erodes over time, protecting the bricks themselves. How quickly mortar deteriorates depends on:
- The mortar type and mix strength
- Exposure to rain, frost and direct sun
- The quality of the original mix and workmanship
- Whether the wall has a coping or overhanging eaves to deflect rain
South-facing and exposed walls typically need repointing sooner than sheltered ones. Chimneys and parapet walls are particularly vulnerable.
Lime mortar vs cement mortar — which is right?
This is the most critical decision in any pointing or repointing job. The wrong choice causes long-term damage.
Cement mortar
Modern cement mortar (sand and cement) is strong, hard and sets quickly. It is appropriate for properties built after about 1920 using harder machine-made bricks. Do not use cement mortar on older soft bricks or flint work.
Lime mortar
Traditional lime mortar is softer and more flexible than cement. It is breathable, which means moisture can escape from the wall rather than being trapped. This is essential for the older, softer bricks used in Victorian, Edwardian and earlier properties. Using cement mortar on these buildings traps moisture, causing frost to blow brick faces off — a process called spalling. Once significant spalling has occurred, the damaged bricks must be cut out and replaced, which is expensive.
Rule of thumb: if your property was built before about 1920, use lime mortar. If it was built after 1930, standard cement mortar is usually appropriate. Properties built in the 1920s often need a lime-rich mix rather than pure cement. Ask your bricklayer — they should be able to assess the wall and advise.
What does pointing / repointing cost?
The UK average cost of repointing is £40–60 per square metre. In the South of England and London expect £50–80 per square metre, including labour and materials. Lime mortar adds approximately £10–£20 per m² to this. Scaffolding is usually required for work above ground floor level and adds £600–£1,500 to the job.
Pointing on new brickwork is included in the bricklayer's day rate — it is not charged separately.
Frequently asked questions
- How deep should old mortar be removed before repointing?
- Old mortar should be removed to a minimum depth of 15–20mm before fresh mortar is applied. Shallower than this and the new mortar will not bond properly and will fall out quickly. Your bricklayer will use an angle grinder, plugging chisel or specialist tool to rake out the old mortar.
- Can I repoint over existing mortar?
- No. Applying new mortar directly over old mortar (bagging) gives very poor results. The new layer is too thin to bond correctly and will crack and fall away within a few years. Old mortar must always be removed properly before repointing.
- How can I tell if my brickwork needs repointing?
- Press your finger into the mortar joint. If it crumbles, is soft, or comes away easily, repointing is needed. Visually, look for joints recessed more than 5mm from the brick face, missing mortar, or staining that runs down from joints after rain.